Alien Encounters and Signs of Water

Today marked our first visit to the Oficina de Extranjeros (Office of Foreigners).  We were out of bed at 5:45 a.m.  Did you know that the sun has not yet risen in Sevilla at 5:45 a.m.?

We had a healthy and substantial breakfast (buffet) at the hotel at 7 and headed off for the Plaza de España with our wheeled carry-on bag filled with well-organized (thanks, Jerry) paperwork in quadruplicate, including another set of passport-style photos (to meet residency card requirements) — photos taken Saturday at the camera department of El Corte Inglés  for the surprisingly cheap price of 9 euros for 12 photos. Another set of official photos of myself that I find hideous. So I'm glad they were really cheap.  Who is that old guy?  I'm seriously thinking it's time to shave off the very gray beard.

THE VIEW OF THE PLAZA DE ESPAÑA FROM THE NORTH COLONNADE AT 8 A.M.

We arrived at the office at 7:38 and waited in what appeared to be a randomly forming line along the colonnade — 20+ people along the wall and another 20+ opposite them (and us) along the stone balustrade.  But, when the doors opened at 8:30, everyone shuffled into their positions in the line against the wall and we were quickly processed through the doors in groups of about 10 to control the flow.

Jerry and I stepped up to the information desk and were greeted warmly.  I showed our visas and passports to the man at the desk, he issued us two numbers and told us to go across the hall and wait to be called.  We went across the hall but, as we entered the room to which we had been directed, a guard came racing toward us and told us we needed to sit in the large waiting room next to the information desk.  I told him the man at the desk said we should wait in the room across the hall, but the guard said, no, and that our numbers would be called.

We headed back to the information desk to confirm with the man there.  I told him the guard said we should wait in the large room and he said, oh.  So we sat down and waited.  The electronic tote had the number "9" displayed. Our numbers were 31 and 32.

About 20 seconds later, the guard came in and asked for anyone with a yellow ticket (that would be us) to come with him.  People with white tickets waited to be called into another large room behind the reception desk.  It was obvious the guard had things well in hand with managing the flow of people.  He brought us to the room he had only a moment before kicked us out of and then told us to go to table 3 or 4, where a female and a male, respectively, bureaucrat (Thing 3 and Thing 4) sat silently waiting.  We went to table 3.  I said "good morning" and apologized in advance for my Spanish making my over-used and always warmly welcomed comment that my Spanish was not very good and Jerry's was "even less" very good.  Thing 3 didn't smile.  Her face showed no expression.  Botox?  No, Bureaucrat.

I told Thing 3 what we where there for.  She asked where my appointment letter was.  I didn't know what she was talking about.  She showed me a sample and I said we didn't have one and asked how we would obtain one.  She said she personally couldn't help us without an appointment letter and that we instead needed to sit down in the row of chairs against the wall and wait for the blond woman (La Rubia) at the unnumbered table to help us.  We did so.  While we waited, Things 1, 3, and 4 sat quietly staring at their computer terminals, not typing, not mousing, just motionless and staring.  Thing 5 worked with a family.  Thing 2 never arrived.  A line of people sat in the chairs waiting for La Rubia.  Another line stood outside in the hall waiting for the information desk.  The main waiting room was now filled with people watching for their numbers to be posted. The guard stopped by and asked me why we were sitting against the wall and not with Thing 3 or Thing 4.  I explained that Thing 3 told us to see La Rubia.  He scratched his head, shrugged, and walked away to help someone else.  He was doing his best to keep things moving.

FILES ON THE READY.  WE ONLY PRESENTED TWO PIECES OF PAPER TODAY.

La Rubia saw about five people before us — we shifted up in the row of chairs each time someone left.  At one point, Thing 3 called out to me from her solitary position and said we should go see La Rubia now.  La Rubia still had someone at the table and snapped back at Thing 3 that, no, she wasn't ready.  After only about 5 minutes of waiting, she called us to her table.  I gave her our passports, visas, and NIE letters from the city of Sevilla.  She asked what we wanted.  I told her we were there to apply for our residency cards.  She said we needed to see Thing 3.  Thing 3 overheard this comment and called back that we didn't have appointment letters.  La Rubia said something to me about needing appointment letters to obtain our student residency cards.  I smiled and said we were not students; we were retired (I said "thank you, but we're too old to be students").  I explained that we had retirement residency visas and that we did not work.  She then called that information out to Thing 3.  Thing 3 said, good, and that she still couldn't do anything without an appointment letter.  I asked again, how do we get an appointment and letter?

Finally, La Rubia, pulled out two forms (forms we had been expecting to receive today) and told me we needed to take those to the bank, pay 15 euros and then come back on our appointed day to complete the process.  I again asked, "How do we get appointments?"  She took out her appointment book and copied our identification numbers into it.  She then wrote our appointments on the forms we would take to the bank.  We can go to any bank to make our payment.  We will then return — with our receipts — to the Oficina de Extranjeros on our appointed day and time to, supposedly, complete the process.

My brain is still rattling.  But, except for a quick trip to the bank in the coming days to make our two 15 euro payments, we can relax until 25 August.  Maybe we'll then have the dubious pleasure of visiting again with Thing 3; maybe it will be Thing 1 or Thing 2.  Or perhaps the Cat in the Hat himself will make an appearance.

WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE

At 2:30, I was met promptly at the apartment by the man from the water company.  He hooked up the water meter for our apartment in the main closet in the lobby and I simply had to turn on the taps to make sure it was working.  So, we've got water.  Now all we need is electricity and furniture!

OUR MAIN BATHROOM.  WATER NOW RUNS OUT OF THAT SHINY CHROME TAP.

Present and Accounted For

We had great plans to have an early breakfast today and head back to the Empadronamiento to register. The intention was to enjoy the cool of the morning before the heat and humidity increased.

GLASS!  WHAT YOU SEE WHEN THE CENSUS BUREAU IS OPEN.

We woke up at about 8 (that is, by the way, extremely early for us in recent weeks). But we rolled over and went back to sleep and 9:32 arrived awfully quickly (and, for us recently, that's still admittedly not bad). We finally headed out for breakfast at 10:35. By the time we walked over to the Empadronamiento, it was 11:15, the brief overcast had cleared, and the heat was increasing. For Jerry's sake, we slowly sauntered.

We had success. Or, as is said in Spanish, we had "éxito," which means success. It is one of those words I am grateful to understand; the initial assumed translation (exit) didn't make much sense. Anyway, we are now registered with the census bureau and counted among the residents of Sevilla!

I saw a plaque on one of the nearby buildings in the warren surrounding the Empadronamiento.  Apparently, these buildings have been here since around 1585.  I am awestruck.

THE COURTYARD OF A GOVERNMENT BUILDING NEAR THE EMPADRONAMIENTO.

Now that we're registered with the Empadronamiento, we can head Monday morning to the office for foreigners (Oficina de Extranjeros) in the spectacular Plaza de España to see how far we get with the rest of our registration process (to obtain our final resident cards). We have read online (expat posts) that you can make an appointment. We have also read online (expat posts) that you can NOT make an appointment and that you simply wait in line.  The posts that said you need an appointment said you phone ahead for one.  I tried phoning a dozen times today before they closed at 2 (well, their posted summer hours say they close at 2) and I never got an answer.  So, we'll wait in line.  We'll bring water and snacks and we'll see how it goes.  We have also read on those expat posts that we need to wait in line the first time to obtain a form that we then complete and take to the bank.  At the bank, we submit the form and pay a 10-euro fee.  We then — we've read — go back another day to the Oficina de Extranjeros, wait in line again, submit the receipt, our visas, and all the other paperwork and proofs we've carried since submitting our applications at the consulate in Los Angeles, and we complete the process.  The web is so full of helpful as well as completely bogus information.  This should be interesting.

WHAT EVERY DRIVEWAY NEEDS.

The lawyer who manages our building emailed me a bit ago.  His English is slightly worse than my Spanish (well, maybe more than slightly).  And he kindly and unfortunately insists on writing his emails in English.  This is what he wrote:

"Next Monday to them 14.30h you have to be in the floor because they come to install the book-keeper of the water."  

We at least understand that one of us needs to be at the apartment 2:30 Monday afternoon.  We have a general idea of the rest (a new meter needs to be installed), although the water is supposedly already taken care of and the lawyer does consistently confuse the English word "water" with the English word "electricity," so it's possible the new electrical meter is being installed Monday (especially since someone was coming from the electric company today to give a safety clearance so that we could have the meter installed and the power turned on).  In any case, I will be there Monday at 2:30 to meet someone.  I just hope that leaves us enough time to take care of our first pass at our residency cards. I think I'd better set the alarm.

Open for Business, Unless We're Not

Now that we have our Spanish residency visas (obtained in Los Angeles in June), the first step on the path to obtaining our residency cards is to register with the Empadronamiento (the Census Bureau).  I found the office late Tuesday morning through an archway in an ancient warren of buildings — after insisting to Jerry earlier that morning that it couldn't possibly be found through that unassuming arch.  The woman who helped me was very knowledgeable.   She gave me the two documents we need to complete and she explained the process.  On the back of one document, instructions and office hours are clearly marked.  This is going to be a breeze.

NOTHING VERY OFFICIAL LOOKING.

THE ARCHWAY.  I WENT BACK LATER TUESDAY MORNING AND FOUND THE OFFICE.

THE BACK OF THE FORM WITH THE HOURS CLEARLY INDICATED.
CLOSED AT 2 FOR SIESTA; OPEN AGAIN 4–8 P.M.

RETURNING WITH OUR PAPERWORK TODAY.  BUT I WAS SURE
THERE WAS A GLASS DOOR AND WINDOWS TUESDAY INSTEAD OF ALL THIS WOOD.

RENOVATED IN 2002.  ART GALLERIES, FLORISTS, AND THE EMPADRONAMIENTO.

POSTED HOURS: 9:30 TO 1:30.  WE WERE THERE AT 4:15.  I GUESS WE'LL BE BACK TOMORROW.

I didn't see the special posted hours Tuesday because the wood doors were pulled wide to allow access.  And the woman I met was so helpful.  And the information on the form was so clear.  We have repeatedly read that we should expect to be surprised (AKA, disappointed) by "regular" business hours.  We're learning.  Afterall, tomorrow is another day!

Powerlessness... And Another Set of Knockers

Well, we still don't have electricity or water in our apartment, but progress is being made.  The building is managed by the law firm with offices on the first floor (the second floor by typical American reckoning).  We met yesterday with the principal lawyer and another lawyer on his team.  They have kindly volunteered their services (yes, that's right, lawyers have kindly volunteered) to get the water and electricity turned on for us.  These guys have been so gracious, kind, and generous with their time.  Unfortunately, even with their help, it could take until the middle of next week before we have electricity.  We also asked them to help us with the process of obtaining our residency cards.

IT'S NOT MUCH, BUT IT'S HOME... FOR NOW (AND AN INCREDIBLE DEAL).

Each time we visit the apartment, we like it and the neighborhood even more.  We're very excited to get in and hope we'll be sleeping there some time next week.  Our shipped items are now on their way.  Minor apartment repairs — and new locks — will be taken care of over the next few days.  We're going to start picking up sheets, towels, etc., and washing them in preparation for move-in day (we're heading off to shop in a few minutes).  And we'll head back over to IKEA to make our major purchases and arrange for delivery.  It's all very exciting.  I'm gratified Jerry and I can survive so well sharing one room (in the hotel) for such a long time given our preference for personal space.

ENTRANCE TO EL PALACIO ARZOBISPAL (THE PALACE OF THE ARCHBISHOP).

This is not going to become the blog to visit for pictures of knockers.  But, I spotted a prodigious set today across the plaza from the cathedral on the doors to the Palace of the Archbishop and it was obvious to me that they should have been included in the "Nice Knockers" post.

YOU'D HAVE TO BE ON HORSEBACK TO REACH THE LOWER KNOCKER (RIGHT).
I HAVE NO IDEA WHO WOULD REACH THE UPPER ONE (PERHAPS A HIGHER POWER).

Nice Knockers

On our walks around old Sevilla, Jerry and I continue to see so many beautiful, unusual, and surprising sights.  Among these sights are the old and new, large and small, door knockers, which I believe are called "aldabas" in Spanish.  During our first week, Jerry would invariably (and innocently) comment, "Nice knockers" — not a phrase usually escaping Jerry's lips (or even crossing his mind).  I've had to explain the double meaning to Jerry, but we really have seen some nice knockers (of the door kind... well, of the other kind too if I'm honest), and I've decided to share some of them here (again, of the door kind).  I especially love the very large, plain iron ring (the first image on the left below) I found in an ancient church door, because it tops a little speak-easy window. ("Pssst.  Judas sent me.")

And, since I hate to be a tease, here for your viewing pleasure is a very brief video of BOTH kinds of knockers.

Street-Walking and El Corte Inglés

Thursday marked two weeks since our arrival in Sevilla.  Hotel-living is getting old.  Especially hotel-living on the edge of the city center rather than within the city center.  In 95 to 100 degree heat, we'd much rather not have to walk the extra 10 or 15 minutes to get to the heart of things.  But, as they say, this too shall pass.  It is Sunday in Sevilla.  Sundays tend to be very quiet here since many businesses are closed.  Sundays in July and August are just about dead, since even those businesses that are usually open have shut their doors on Sundays (and many on Saturdays, as well) these two months.  But, our hotel has been pleasant.  And the deal is incredible.  The hotel room is actually costing us less per week than our apartment.  If it weren't for the expense of eating out three meals a day, this wouldn't be bad.  Anyway, Jerry and I have been known to eat out three meals a day even when we have a kitchen.  So, I suppose I shouldn't gripe too much.  Jerry doesn't go out much in the heat of the day (nor do most people).  I don't mind it much — nor do I sweat (excuse me, Mom, perspire) like Jerry (who has been going through about three shirts a day).  So, I continue to wander on my own, exploring, marveling, and taking pictures.

AVENIDA DE LA CONSTITUCION THIS WARM SATURDAY AFTERNOON.

We patiently await (or at least we try to patiently await) the turning on of the water and electricity in our new apartment.  We have no idea when that will happen.  Perhaps Monday.  Perhaps as late, or later than, the following Monday.  Until we have electricity (which means air conditioning), we will not get our furniture from IKEA, nor will we schedule delivery of the things we had shipped from California, nor will we paint the living room, etc.  So, we're in a holding pattern.  I have drawn up floor plans and furniture to-scale, so we know exactly where everything is going and how it will fit.  Jerry has created a spreadsheet of all the dimensions, stock numbers, prices, and more, of everything we'll get from IKEA.  We're ready.

PLAZA DE CABILDO, A TINY SEMI-CIRCULAR PLAZA DISCOVERED DOWN AN ALLEY
ACROSS FROM THE CATHEDRAL.  WITHIN, A GREAT STORE FOR STAMP-COLLECTORS.

Yesterday after lunch, Jerry walked back to the cool of the hotel and I strolled the city.  It was too early to take care of some of the things I wanted to research, such as what our internet/TV/landline telephone/mobile options are — because those few stores that would have been open Saturday were closed for siesta.  So, I simply walked the streets.

EL CORTE INGLES ON PLAZA DEL DUQUE.  MAIN STORE AND CAMERA STORE.

I shopped a bit at El Corte Inglés and will definitely have to find more practical places to shop, as just about everything is significantly more expensive than I'm used to (Jerry's usually $16 designer-chic deodorant sticks are more than $40 at El Corte Inglés).  I like to shop but I enjoy sales and premium outlet malls.  Still, El Corte Inglés is a fun place (or I should say places) to shop.

EL CORTE INGLES, MORE FOR WOMEN ON EL PLAZA DEL DUQUE (AND THE BACK ALLEY)

In Centro (the old center of Sevilla), the department store has five buildings (unless I've missed one).  There is another large El Corte Inglés in Nervion, a more contemporary neighborhood well east of Centro.  The main store in Centro, in the Plaza del Duque, contains clothing, their famous gourmet supermarket, places to eat, cosmetics, etc.  Across the plaza is the store that carries books, cameras, and other personal eletronics.  On another corner of the plaza is more women's clothing.  A few streets away are two more El Corte Inglés stores.  One carries furniture; the other is for appliances, housewares, hardware, electronic keyboards, mobile phone company counters.  It's hard to keep track.  We met Albert our first day in town in front of, per his instructions, El Corte Inglés.  He told me which one, electronics.  I didn't realize there were more than the three on the Plaza del Duque and thought "electronics" meant the one that carries cameras.  Poor Albert (and Jerry) stood waiting in the hot sun.  I'm grateful for cell phones.  Albert is half Swedish.  Jerry is half Norwegian.  They both change their shirts often.

WHERE WE WERE SUPPOSED TO BE.  ON THE PLAZA DE LA MAGDALENA.

Mojitos and Other Muddles

Have I mentioned lately that I'm not only happy to be having this new adventure in Spain but I'm especially elated to be having another adventure (in Spain or anywhere else) WITH JERRY?

MUDDLED MINT.  SO BUSY SIPPING THAT I ALMOST FORGOT TO GET A PICTURE.

We signed Monday on the dotted line.  Well, more exactly, we signed — in triplicate — in the margin of every page and then at the bottom of the last page of our apartment contract. We then rushed to the bank to meet with our English-speaking banker, Rosario, who turned out to be our English-speaking banker, Amin, although no one told us it wasn't Rosario until the next day.  We signed about 90 pieces of paper at the bank and we now have a Spanish bank account.  We are waiting for the building owners to sign our lease paperwork, so we can take that to the appropriate offices to make our first (and, we hope, only) pass at obtaining our resident cards.  We still have to get the utilities turned on.  It took us the better part of a day to figure out the names of the two utility companies.  Even the simplest task becomes a major learning opportunity. So many new chances to feel like complete idiots.

ANOTHER DINNER IN PLAZA MARIA LA BLANCA TUESDAY NIGHT.

BACK TO CARMELA

Our new security blankets are our mojitos at Carmela.  We tried Mojitos at San Marco Restaurant the other night but they were so bad that we actually sent them back.  Carmela's are consistently good.  So are Carmela's tapas.  We had "comfort" tapas last night — light servings of meat and potatoes.

THE MISSION-STYLE DESK WILL SOON BE IN ITS NEW HOME IN SPAIN.

MUEBLES (FURNITURE)
Except for the five pieces of furniture and miscellaneous items we shipped from California that will be here soon, we don't have enough furniture to fill our new three-bedroom apartment.  And since we don't want to use our entire retirement budget to furnish it in grand style, we headed over to IKEA this afternoon to see how we can fill in cheaply.  We had a very successful first look at IKEA and will soon take on the challenge of ordering everything and arranging for delivery (all in Spanish), and then putting it all together, which can be comical in any language.  In addition to the antiques I included in earlier posts (the grandfather's clock, the antique coat rack, the antique cabinet), we've got my old Mission-style desk, our English pub table, some antique family portraits, Jerry's grandmother's mantel clock, my mother's sculpture (and needleworks and paintings), antique mirrors, and lots of wall art. 

SOME OF THE OTHER MISCELLANY AS IT WAS BEING PACKED.

These items and our "brilliant sense of design," should enable us to make the place homey, classy and not completely IKEA-like.  I mention our brilliant sense of design since we are afterall a couple of gay men and it has been said — repeatedly and absurdly — that we ALL have a brilliant sense of design.

SEEN AT TABERNA MIAMI IN TRIANA THE OTHER NIGHT.  NOT GOING UP ON OUR WALL.

THE OTHER MUDDLES
So, as I mentioned, we await more paperwork that we can take to register for our resident cards.  The lawyer offered today to try and turn on our utilities (since he represents the entire building) without requiring us to go in-person to the utility offices (the names of which, and addresses, we finally now have).  We hope he's successful.  And we'll need to make another trip to the bank because, although we have an account, we were unsuccessful yesterday setting up our online banking.  The number we were given in a sealed envelope turned out to be unreadable.  Very secure.

DOROTHY, WE ARE NOT IN CALIFORNIA ANYMORE (BUT THERE IS AN ELEVATOR)

I Wanna Go to Miami

The title is the punchline to a very old and very bad joke:  "What is the favorite wine of a certain ethnic-American princess?"  (Wine... whine... get it?)  The only reason I thought of it, was because we were in Triana last night (one of the neighborhoods across the river) and we had dinner at Taberna Miami, a great restaurant and Tapas bar.

TABERNA MIAMI.  THE SHRIMP WAS DELICIOUS, BUT WAY TOO MUCH WORK!

The Vela de Santa Ana is an annual Triana festival that has its origins in an ancient pilgrimage made to the Parish of Santa Ana for, I believe, around 700 years.  We had a first look Friday night with Manolo, our January-vacation landlord and now valued friend.

AFTER TAPAS.  STROLLING OVER TO THE ENTERTAINMENT.

Jerry and I went back across the river Saturday night to take in some more.  We took the bus there and walked home.  It's about a 20-minute leisurely walk from our hotel — 30 minutes if you stop for three scoops of ice cream on the way back.  But, it's only about 10 minutes away from our new apartment!

FOOD AND DRINKS AND BEAUTIFUL VIEWS.

After dinner, we walked back to the plaza where a large stage and seating area is set up for live performances.  Friday night, we got to hear a bit of Flamenco singing from some of the best and brightest, and most famous.  Saturday night, Jerry and I watched some of the children's Flamenco dance competition.  The pairs we saw ranged in age from about 8 to 13.  And there was some amazing talent. 

THE FLAMENCO COMPETITION.

SENSATIONAL TALENT.  THE AUDIENCE WAS FILLED WITH PEOPLE OF EVERY AGE.

I posted about Triana, famous for its tile workshops and potteries, back in January.  It's also famous for providing almost the entire crews for Columbus's voyages to America.  

AWFUL TO IMAGINE.

HEADING THROUGH THE CALLEJON TO THE PASEO DE ARTE.

In addition to those distinctions, Triana, has another:  The public market is built on the site of the former prison, Castilla San Jorge, home of the Spanish Inquisition.  Jerry and I walked down Callejon de la Inquisicion.  It's a charming little alley that leads to a beautiful spot on the river.  But, during the Inquisition, if you were taken down the "callejon," you were probably about to be burned alive for being a heretic (unless you repented and were lucky enough to be garroted first).  Now, when you walk through the arch and arrive at the river, you'll find the Paseo de Arte, an ongoing venue for local artists.  It's a nice change.

BACK OVER THE BRIDGE FOR ICE CREAM.

Adios Pink Palacio. Hola Dos de Mayo.

Well, it's not a pink palacio.  But, we like it even more.  We placed a deposit Friday evening on an apartment and we should sign the papers Monday afternoon.  We looked at a total of five apartments.  The fifth was the charm (although I think THREE times is supposed to be the charm).

A VIEW ONTO THE PLAZA FROM ONE OF THE LIVING ROOM DOORS.

It's in an old building on a beautiful plaza (can't believe WHICH plaza), and it's completely renovated with central air and heat, new kitchen, beautiful bathrooms, great views from large (double-glazed) doors/windows that all open onto little balconies, lots of light.  I could go on and on.  (Well, I DO go on and on, don't I?)

A LITTLE BIT OF THE LIVING ROOM.

We were told the apartment was near the Plaza del Duque, which is the plaza on which three of the five buildings of the department store, El Corte Ingles, are located.  But, when we were given the address to meet the agent, we learned that the apartment itself was about two streets away from there. And it was in the same building as the amazing tapas bar (the best tapas bar in Sevilla, we have been repeatedly told and, from our experience, is no exaggeration), Dos de Mayo.

VIEW FROM KITCHEN, THROUGH FOYER, TO LIVING ROOM.

Our friend Alberto had given us the name of a rental agent he recommended very highly.  He was sure Carmen and her team at Aquilcasa would be able to help us find a home.  He had high praise for them as professionals and also as wonderful people.  He didn't praise them enough!  What an absolute pleasure it is to work with them.

ANOTHER WONDERFUL VIEW.

The location is incredible, in the center of old Sevilla. It's not far from the pink palacio, which is about four streets on the other side of the Plaza del Duque.  I went back this afternoon and took pictures of the building and the plaza in the glorious sunshine.   The comment Jerry and I made yesterday when we left the apartment was, "It feels like us."  It's a great feeling.

THAT'S "OUR" BUILDING IN THE BACKGROUND!

PASSING THE MONUMENT AND COMING HOME TO DOS DE MAYO.

She Acts Like She Owns The Place

Last night, we had dinner at Carmela, a restaurant in the plaza Santa Maria de la Blanca.  We chose Carmela because, even though it was past 9:00, it was still extremely warm outside. Carmela takes up a very large area in the plaza and there were wonderful breezes coming from all different directions.  Every time we've walked by the restaurant, it's been busy.  Also, the tapas specials looked really good.  I chose not to carry my camera with me.  Poor choice.  And, having a temporary local mobile phone, I no longer carry my iPhone (maybe I'll get a new SIM card to use it here or maybe I'll upgrade my phone when I get my permanent service), so I didn't have that as a fallback camera.  You'll just have to use your imaginations this time. And I'll have to carry my camera in the future.

NOT MUCH OF A PROMOTIONAL PHOTO.

We ordered Mojitos.  We LOVE Mojitos.  These were our first Mojitos Sevillanos, and they were absolute perfection (they might even have been the best we've had).  While we enjoyed our drinks and waited for our food, a woman arrived with an entourage and took over a couple of tables in the plaza right near the restaurant's service bar.  She then went and took a table from inside to add to her collection of tables.  There was a bit of a discussion with the waiter and he then carried the mismatched table out for her.  She then "stromped" around the plaza collecting chairs.  "Jeez," we both commented, "She acts like she owns the place."  We couldn't believe how pushy she was.  The place was mobbed and, when we arrived, there were only two servers.  This pushy woman would call out to them and get up and ask for things, never giving them a break.  Our food arrived (it was delicious) and we briefly forgot about the grande dame.

Soon, though, Jerry noticed her picking up empty glasses from her table and carrying them up to the bar.  He then commented, "You will NOT believe this.  She just walked behind the bar.  I think she's washing a glass."

"Wait a minute," we both thought (we're not THAT slow).

She walked from table-to-table picking up glasses, and taking them into the kitchen.  Then, she started busing tables.  She picked up our empties and — warmly, graciously, and kindly — asked us how everything was.  So, not only did she ACT like she owned the place, she DID own the place.  In addition, she wasn't above some hard work while hosting a night out with friends.  That'll teach us!

We ended our meal with tartas chocolates con helado hierbabuena — chocolate "tarts," that were a cross between chocolate pudding and chocolate cake, with mint ice cream.  Dessert was so good we moaned as we ate it.  It was an exceptional place for food, drinks, fresh air, and people-watching.  And it was not at all expensive.  We can't wait to go back.

LAST WEEK. 
THE BEST FELLOW TRAVELER.

THE SEARCH FOR A HOME

We looked at two apartments yesterday afternoon.  The first was very large and very grand — but very tired and rundown.  The second was two stories, smaller and quaint, but exposed to the street and the other apartments in the courtyard.  Seeing what's around for the price really helps us make a more educated and enlightened decision.  I am still exchanging emails with the agent who's handling the pink palacio.  She is extremely pleasant and we're hoping we'll be able to smooth out the kinks in the deal with the owner.  So, we might still end up in the pink palacio.  We meet with the agent and the owner Monday morning.

DOING BUSINESS IN SPANISH

I am truly enjoying speaking Spanish.  But, dealing with rental agents and bankers requires me to communicate at a level beyond my abilities.  I can make do with rental agents and we know where to get assistance with contracts and agreements.  But, we definitely need to open our local accounts at a bank that has someone who can work with us in English.  We did our research and found the bank that offered the best services for us but, until today, we could not find a branch that could help us.  So, after breakfast I walked over to the main branch.  It's located near the cathedral, which is where so many English speakers do their business.  Success!  We have an appointment with an English-speaking banker Monday evening.

I'm sure it's a challenge at times to understand me because I know I'm creating my own words (soon there will be Mitchellisms).  But, it is clear that the locals appreciate my attempts to communicate in their language.  Quite often I notice that I receive a very cool welcome in a store only to depart feeling like a friend.  Sevillanos seem to take great pride in their amazing city and our love for Sevilla clearly pleases the people we meet.  Today, I stopped at a small pharmacy to pick up some sunscreen (for my ever-growing forehead).  I had a wonderful visit with the initially cool pharmacist.  When I paid the cashier — after telling them both about our retirement, our apartment hunt, our plans to live permanently in Sevilla — the cashier asked me if I was from France.  (Have I mentioned how happy it makes me that my Spanish doesn't immediately brand me as American or English-speaking?)

I've ended with a photo I took yesterday of a Common Swift.  We see them and hear them (a very sweet, not unpleasant or sleep-interrupting sound) outside our hotel window every morning.  Difficult to get a clear picture.  I did mention they're called "swift."