Chocolate Egg Creams and the Kick-Off

I arrived back home in Sevilla this morning. The Dowager Duchess (and The Kid Brother) kept me very busy in Brooklyn, leaving me little time for blogging. It was too short a time with them and too long a time away from San Geraldo. I'm going to share some more pictures and stories from the great City of New York for the next two or three days (although I only hit three of the five boroughs this trip, and one of those was not Manhattan).

THE VIEW FROM THE DUCHESS' BALCONY. HEADING INTO NEW YORK HARBOR.

Tuesday morning, The Dowager Duchess went with a group to Trader Joe's (a specialty retail grocery store). The nearest one is in downtown Brooklyn and my mother loves shopping there when she gets the chance. She comes home with dark-chocolate-covered edamame (soy nuts) and lots of other goodies. While she was gone I took a two-hour walk on the beach, Boardwalk, and around the neighborhood.

THE RECENTLY RENOVATED (UNWOODEN) BOARDWALK AT BRIGHTON BEACH.
LOOKING WEST TOWARD CONEY ISLAND.

Except for the day of the tornadoes, the weather in New York was glorious for my entire visit. Tuesday morning was in the mid-70s, perfect on the Boardwalk and beach. When I walked, I walked briskly, but as you can see I stopped often for pictures.

FEET IN THE ATLANTIC, LOOKING BACK TOWARD CONEY ISLAND.

For a big-city seaside, the beaches are very pleasant — especially in September after the millions of swimmers and sun-bathers have gone back to work and school. On a Sunday in summer, you have to carefully walk on your toes between blankets and towels to get to the water. When I had breaks from school, I would head down to the beach in the morning and I wouldn't go home until after 5. The sound of the waves is my favorite sound in the world (other than the sound of San Geraldo's voice).

CONEY ISLAND AND BRIGHTON BEACH WERE MOBBED EVEN IN THE 1920s.
MY FATHER'S MOTHER (POLKA DOTS) AND A FRIEND.

Starting at the age of 15, I worked Saturdays for the New York Association for Brain Injured children. They had a play-therapy and occupational-training program and rented space in the Shorefront "Y" in Brighton Beach alongside the Boardwalk. After my first year with them (I worked through high school and was their art therapist for a year after I finished college), they moved from that building to a lot more space in a public school in the neighborhood of Bay Ridge. But that first year, I would walk to work via the beach in the morning.

THE SHOREFRONT "Y" WHERE I BEGAN TO BUILD MY FORTUNE IN 1969. 

I was hired at a hefty $3 a day — and that was a joke even that long ago. My first Saturday, I went to the nearby deli for lunch. I had an amazing (and huge) corned beef sandwich along with a chocolate egg cream. I spent almost two week's earnings.  (A chocolate egg cream consists of chocolate syrup, seltzer, and milk. There are lots of different theories regarding the origin of the name, but one thing is certain: The drink never included eggs.)

CHOCOLATE EGG CREAM AT THE PARKVIEW DINER LAST WEEK.
ALMOST AS GOOD AS I REMEMBERED.

A couple of blocks past the "Y" you reach the end of The Boardwalk. It slopes down, ramp-like, to a small paved area that ends at a brick wall. You can turn right onto the last bay of Brighton Beach, or turn left and head up into the streets. The neighborhood of Manhattan Beach begins soon after.

THE WESTERN EDGE OF MANHATTAN BEACH BORDERING BRIGHTON BEACH.

My father and mother used to walk the Boardwalk to the end and "kick off" the wall. It became a family tradition. After my father died and the first time Jerry and I again took that walk with The Duchess, we all kicked off the wall. We kept the tradition going for years. So, when I walked on my own Tuesday morning, I felt it my duty to honor my father (and mother) and kick off the wall.

THAT'S ME KICKING OFF THE WALL TUESDAY MORNING.

The Cyclone and the Backseat Driver

My second day in New York, the city was hit with two tornadoes. A rare occurence in New York and one I've never experienced. The Kid Brother and I went for a walk to Coney Island right after the tornadoes touched down just a few miles away. We had no idea.

GULLS (AND KITES) HOVERING IN PLACE IN THE WIND.
A HALF HOUR EARLIER AND WE WOULD HAVE SEEN A TORNADO IN THIS VIEW.

After I got my hot dog fix at Nathan's, The Kid Brother challenged me to a skeeball showdown. It was always our favorite arcade game when we were kids and The Kid Brother is addicted (as he is to most sports and competitions).

AFTER THE TORNADOES PASSED. VERY HAPPY KITE FLYERS.

We were a little early for an off-season Saturday and couldn't find an open arcade. So we walked on the Boardwalk and watched the kites soaring in the strong winds. I complained to The Kid Brother, who had to hold his ever-present Yankees baseball cap tightly to his head, that I also hated the wind because it made a mess of my hair. He said, "Uh huh." (He wasn't really listening, intent on finding an arcade with skeeball.) So, I continued, "Do you see how my hair flaps in my eyes?" He turned to me, glanced at my buzz-cut balding head and said, "You jerk." Charming.

THE ENTRANCE TO THE SCREAM ZONE.
NO SKEEBALL THERE.

We finally found an open arcade and set up shop. Each game has nine balls. Between us, we rolled 360! I rolled 5 games myself and left the rest to the winner and still champion. We earned 1098 points, which were traded in for a stuffed pig with blue wings, and a couple of plastic trinkets.

THE WONDER WHEEL, REVOLVING IN CONEY ISLAND SINCE 1920.
MY SISTER AND I USED TO LOVE THE SWINGING CARS. IT WAS LIKE A ROLLER COASTER FERRIS WHEEL.

A HISTORIC LANDMARK, THE CYCLONE. A WOODEN ROLLER COASTER OPENED IN 1927,
THE DAY AFTER THE DOWAGER DUCHESS WAS BORN.

THE SKEEBALL CHAMPION IN ACTION.
I THINK THIS WAS BALL 247.

HE'S SO GOOD, HE ACTUALLY ATTRACTED AN AUDIENCE.

Sunday, The Kid Brother arrived again bright and early at The Dowager Duchess'. We decided to do some shopping. So, we piled in the car and sat in traffic on the Belt Parkway. Sitting in traffic can be unpleasant. Sitting in traffic with The Kid Brother (also known as the Backseat Driver) can put me over the edge. The Dowager Duchess sits in front and the Kid Brother sits in back and provides a running commentary on whether or not the traffic is moving ahead, what might be causing the delay, which lane would be better for me to move into, which car I should watch out for, when I should stop (or go), if I'm following too closely. When he rides in front, he grabs the hanging strap, stomps his foot on his own invisible brake, and slams his palms against the dashboard.

SITTING IN TRAFFIC ON THE BELT PARKWAY.

The Kid Brother does not drive. But one of these days, the kid brother is going to get out and walk! I snapped his picture while we were at a dead stop and I told him I was going to post it on my blog with the caption "THE BACKSEAT DRIVER." He said, "If you do, one of these days, you'll pay for it!" But he laughed. So I figure I'm safe.

THE BACKSEAT DRIVER.

Bagels, Chocolate, and Bacon Cheeseburgers

I arrived in New York Thursday night to spend a week with the Dowager Duchess. I flew Iberia for the first time and had read and heard so many awful things about the airline that I expected the worst. It paid off. It was the most pleasant trip I've had between the States and Spain. The flights — Sevilla to Madrid to New York — were on time, no more or less uncomfortable than any other airline (which isn't saying much), the crews were great, and even the food was good. I'm hoping I'll have the same to say when I fly home this Friday.

THE VIEW FROM OUTSIDE THE PLANE AS WE LANDED IN NEW YORK.
(IT WAS A BIT WINDY, BUT I DON'T HAVE MUCH HAIR TO GET MUSSED.)

Like me, My-Mother-The-Dowager-Duchess does not cook. Unlike me, The Dowager Duchess did at one time (for years) cook very well and still knows how to do it. She also baked every week. I've checked the several cookie jars that were always well-stocked in the kitchen. Not anymore. Whenever San Geraldo and I visit, he cooks or we go out. With San Geraldo remaining behind in Spain, we are, as they say, "up a creek without a paddle" (or, as San Geraldo the South Dakotan would say, "up a crick without a paddle").

THE DOWAGER DUCHESS KNOWS HOW TO MAKE ME HAPPY.
FRESH BAGELS, CHOCOLATE, AND FLOWERS TO WELCOME ME HOME.

We've hit two Brooklyn diners (with individual servings that would feed a family of four). Saturday, The Kid Brother and I walked over to Nathan's in Coney Island so I could get my fix of hot dogs and the absolute best French fries around. He didn't complain. I used to eat seven hot dogs at a sitting. I now eat two (and usually wish I hadn't). So, I guess I'll never be in the running for Nathan's annual hot dog eating contest. (I'd need to eat 69 hot dogs to break the record.) 

COLE SLAW AND A HALF-SOUR PICKLE AT PARKVIEW DINER.

Saturday, before we went to Nathan's, we watched from my mother's windows as a storm swept in off the ocean. Powerful wind, rain, and darkness. It was awesome, but passed quickly. We didn't know that a short time later, after the storm had passed through, two tornadoes (a very strange occurence in New York City) touched down not many miles away. One could actually be seen easily from the Boardwalk where we strolled a few minutes later.

MY DELUXE HAMBURGER LUNCH FRIDAY AT PARKVIEW. I DIDN'T EAT DINNER.

I've fallen behind on blogging and reading and hope to catch up while I'm here, but it's not likely. The Dowager Duchess and The Kid Brother have been keeping me busy. He came over again early this (Sunday) morning. He lives about 20 minutes away in an independent-living group home with two other guys a lot like him (although not nearly as neat and organized). He's much more stable than his older brother. He's had the same job for more than 25 years (the longest I ever stayed in a job was 5 years, second longest, 3-1/2). He's lived in only two apartments in the past 24 years (I think I've lived in 15). I could take a lesson from him... but I won't. His apartment is 20 minutes away by bus or subway from my mother's apartment. An hour round-trip by car when I drive him home! Ah, the joys of traffic lights and driving in New York! And kid brothers who like to have a chauffeur! He's not working Wednesday, so will come over again bright and early. I have some more pictures of our day in Coney Island and of him back-seat driving today. I promised him I'd post that picture and caption it "BACKSEAT DRIVER." He promised me I'd pay for it one of these days.

UNSMILING KID BROTHER WITH HOT DOGS AND FRIES (AFTER HE MUTTERED, "GET ON WITH IT.")
SOMETIMES HE HAS AS LITTLE PATIENCE FOR MY CAMERA AS DOES SAN GERALDO.

AFTER LEAVING NATHAN'S AND HEADING FOR THE BOARDWALK.
THE ANNUAL HOT DOG EATING CONTEST COUNTDOWN.

We three had a good (exhausting) shopping and lunching day together. Tomorrow, The Duchess and I will drive to New Jersey (about two hours, almost to Philadelphia) to have lunch with Aunt Matilda. I wrote about visiting her once before (Part 1 followed by Part 2). That was when she still lived on Long Island and we got lost in the wilds of suburbia. This time, Google Maps will be providing the directions.

By the way, I really miss San Geraldo! And so do The Dowager Duchess and The Kid Brother.

Just Desserts and Old Cheese

We went out last night with Tere and Miguel to Eslava, another great tapas bar a few blocks away, for a belated birthday dinner for Tere. It was another perfect evening (as is any evening spent with these two interesting, kind, intelligent, warm, loving, and excruciatingly patient friends). Excruciatingly patient with most things, but particularly with our communication skills. San Geraldo is using more and more Spanish in his conversation. It's wonderful, requires a lot of concentration, and some interpretation skills from me. (For example, he still regularly wishes people "happy complementary anus" — feliz compleanos — instead of "happy birthday" — feliz cumpleaños.) My interpretations quite often leave something to be desired, and Miguel and Tere have never once made me or us feel like they're thinking, "Get on with it!" We're amazed at the depth of conversation we're able to have with them. And Tere is an exceptional teacher.

LA CARTA (THE MENU).

The food at Eslava is unusual and delicious and surprisingly inexpensive. For our meal, we shared huevos sobre bizcocho, boletus, y vino dulce (egg over biscuit, porcino mushrooms, and sweet wine), pudding de berenjenas (eggplant pudding), solomillo salsa eneldo (steak in dill sauce), and charlota de calabacin (zucchini charlotte)... Don't ask me for recipes or ingredients. Just trust me. It was all good. Photos follow, but this post is really all about the desserts.

HUEVOS SOBRE BIZCOCHO, BOLETUS, Y VINO DULCE.
(EGG OVER BISCUIT, PORCINO MUSHROOMS, AND SWEET WINE.)  MY FAVORITE DISH.

PUDDING DE BERENJENAS.
(EGGPLANT PUDDING.)  ON SECOND THOUGHT, MY FAVORITE.

SOLOMILLO SALSA ENELDO.
(STEAK WITH DILL SAUCE.)  COME TO THINK OF IT, THIS WAS MY FAVORITE.

CHARLOTA DE CALABACÍN.
(ZUCCHINI CHARLOTTE.)  WITHOUT A DOUBT, MY FAVORITE!

The waiter suggested a sampler of all the desserts. But there are a number of those that San Geraldo doesn't like (because they have nuts). And, he really wanted the dessert he had last time, a chocolate "tarta" that is really more like a slab of fudge. Exquisite.

SAN GERALDO'S TARTA DE CHOCOLATE (CHOCOLATE "CAKE")

I had to have the one I had last time we were at Eslava, just so I could take a picture and write about it. It's called helado queso viejo (old-cheese ice cream) and that's exactly what it is, ice cream made from aged cheese. It's adorned with what looks like crystallized sugar, but is actually cheese. It sounds strange, I know. But it's served on a layer of  dulce de membrio (quince marmalade) with a large dollop of tomato marmalade on the side. It's important to take a bit of each on the spoon for the perfect experience. Just the ice cream, a little cheesy. Just the crystallized cheese, a little cheesy. All flavors together, the absolutely perfect dessert.

MIGUEL'S TARTA DE QUESO (CHEESE CAKE)

TERE'S TIRAMISU (TIRAMISU)

CAUGHT STEALING A BELATED BIRTHDAY BESO.

MY HELADO QUESO VIEJO (OLD-CHEESE ICE CREAM).
WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT IT COULD BE SO GOOD?!?

Tomorrow, I'm off to New York to visit The Dowager Duchess, The Kid Brother, and some wonderful friends and family. I'll only be there a week and hope to post regularly while I'm gone. Watch for photos of hot dogs, New York delis, and more! If I find any old-cheese ice cream, I'll be sure to let you know.

Not Feeling Completely Renewed

I'm in the process of renewal but I'm not completely there yet. More specifically, San Geraldo and I made some progress this morning on our residency card renewals. It wasn't without its chuckles, grumbles, and mystification.

Before I tell you about that, however, I want to share a photo of what I found to be a charming sculpture in Los Remedios. The sculpture is called "Muchachas al Sol" ("Girls in the Sun"). It was completed in 1963 and was the first modern monument erected in Sevilla.

Antonio Cano, a sculptor originally from Granada, was hired to design the piece for the neighborhood across the river from the Cigar Factory, but it wasn't very well received by conservatives, which included many art critics, and protests were held to keep it from being so openly displayed. Puritans? It wound up being shuttled around the city for years, spending some time hidden in the trees of Maria Luisa Park, before finally being installed in 1981 in Los Remedios. The girls are sitting in the sun drying tobacco leaves. I don't know if the real "cigar women" actually performed this task topless, but they were known for being a bit, well let's just say, morally relaxed. Remember "Carmen"? In any case, these two certainly look relaxed and refreshed. The only ones in our house looking relaxed and refreshed right now are the cats.

"GIRLS IN THE SUN," BY ANTONIO CANO.

$#%*@#' FOREIGNERS (THAT'S US)
As I started to tell you above, San Geraldo and I returned to the Foreigners Office this morning. We got up before 8. By 9 we were at the Plaza de España with everything we thought we'd need (and more) to submit the second round of documents for our residency card renewals. There was a very short line inside. We received our numbers and were called within a few minutes. This time, we were sent into a large office that last year was dedicated to work visas and the like. I was confused, but went where we were called. A very nice young guy sat at a desk. He laughed when he saw our passports and our multiple stacks of papers. He said, "Why do Americans always bring so many copies? We only need one." I told him that when we submitted our original visa paperwork in Los Angeles, we were told to bring two copies of each item, only to discover when we were there that we needed three or four of certain items. Fortunately we had been warned about this and San Geraldo had come prepared with extras, just in case. We now take no chances.

WHEN WE STARTED THE PROCESS LAST YEAR AT THE L.A. SPANISH CONSULATE,
SAN GERALDO CREATED AN ACCORDION FILE FOR EACH OF US .

The nice bureaucrat took our papers and immediately said, "Uh oh." The first of the three requirements in the letter we had received was a complete copy of our passports. We didn't give this any thought. We (San Geraldo) have copied the insides of our passports several times now. No problem. Well, yes, problem. This time they really did want a complete copy — every single page, including all the blanks. I snuck a peek to my left at San Geraldo (because I could feel steam coming from that direction). He looked like he could blow a gasket at any moment. Fortunately, the guy behind the desk was very pleasant. He told us we should just go get the copies and come right back. We wouldn't have to wait when we returned. I asked if he knew where the nearest copy shop was. Oh, it was nearby. "Just the other side of the park." Hmmm. I asked, "On Calle Menendez Pelayo?" He said, "Yes."

MADE WITH A TRADITIONAL CAKE GIVEN TO US BY OUR NEIGHBORS.
SAN GERALDO'S COBBLER WITH NECTARINE AND MANGO.  WE COULD USE SOME MORE RIGHT NOW.

San Geraldo and I had copies done there when we were staying at the hotel last year. Trust me, it's not really nearby. It's a big park. At a brisk pace, it would take more than 15 minutes, which meant we had probably 40 minutes of walking roundtrip, plus waiting for the copies (and the store seemed to always have a backlog). I didn't tell that to San Geraldo until we got outside. I suggested we take a cab. He said he was willing to walk. I said, we could start walking and then see what he thought. But we'd definitely take a cab back. Then, shocker, the newsstand immediately across the street from the Plaza de España had a sandwich sign that said "We do PHOTOCOPIES"... in Spanish and English (the sign that is; obviously the photocopies come out in whatever language they start in). We walked up and told the guy inside the kiosk that he was our savior. He laughed. If he was Catholic (which is fairly likely), he didn't appear to be offended. Thank god! Oops. Well, never mind.

A VERY SMART BUSINESSPERSON AND NUESTRO SALVADOR.

We left a few minutes later with our copies, and didn't wait more than a moment before seeing our friendly bureaucrat again. Everything was in order. The next step? In about a month (more or less), we will receive a letter to return to the office to pick up another document to take to the bank so we can pay another small fee. Then, we return again to the Foreigners Office with that stamped form, our passports, and new photos. Then they will process everything. About a month after that (more or less), we will return to the Foreigners Office to pick up our new cards.

THE DYING AGAVE (MY GIANT ASPARAGUS). THERE ARE NEW SHOOTS ALL AROUND THE BASE.
ITS RENEWAL WILL BE AN EVEN SLOWER PROCESS THAN OUR OWN. (I HOPE.)

Geez, as they say in South Dakota. Geez, as they say in New York. (Can you hear the difference?) We began the renewal process in early June. Our old cards expired mid-July. We should have our new cards some time in November — more or less. If San Geraldo wants or needs to leave the country any time before then, he'll have to go through the process I recently went through (and wrote about) to obtain a "return authorization." I'm hoping we'll have our new cards before my authorization expires in November. We should have our new two-year cards just in time to start the renewal process for the next two-year cards (OK, I exaggerate). After that it supposedly gets easier. As they say in Spanish, "Ja!" (Which sounds the same in English, "Ha!")

Oh, do me a favor. Please don't ask San Geraldo how he's feeling about any of this.

"WHAT NOW?!?  DO YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THIS?!?"
(DUDO FOUND A PAPER NAPKIN DURING THE NIGHT.)

Chocolate Hamburgers and Fishy Fish

My computer has been working flawlessly, better than it's worked in years, since I picked it up from Goldenmac Friday morning. (I just knocked again on wood.)

And more good news: San Geraldo signed Friday morning for two registered letters acknowledging receipt of our residency renewal paperwork and providing us with already completed forms so that we could make the required 15-euro payments.

We began our day today by walking to the bank to pay the fees. While we stood in line, we realized we didn't have our passports with us and we didn't know if we'd need them. So, as I watched San Geraldo's discomfort and stress level grow in the poorly air-conditioned bank lobby, I turned to him and quietly said, "If he says he can't process the payments without our passports, do not make a face." Fortunately, we didn't need our passports for today's transaction, just our residency cards. That's a very good thing, because it was clear San Geraldo really wanted to make a face. He might even have muttered. He went home and I went for a walk.

BACK AT DOS DE MAYO FOR LUNCH THE OTHER DAY.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF FISH THESE WERE (EXCEPT FOR THE SQUID AT RIGHT).
I DO KNOW I DON'T EAT THEM (EXCEPT FOR THE SQUID AT RIGHT).

Tomorrow morning, we return to the Foreigners Office. San Geraldo had a fantasy that when we submit our stamped payment form, La Rubia (or someone much nicer) will pull our new cards out of the box. (Kind of like pulling a rabbit out of a hat, I think.) At least we're making progress.

ON MY WALK. THE ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE.
NOT A BAD GIG, I'D SAY.

THE GIRALDA TODAY.

El Sanedrín has started serving breakfast again. We've enjoyed going to Emperador Trajano, but we've had to walk — gasp — four blocks to get there, and they only have indoor seating (that's the real drawback). El Sanedrín has lots of tables on our plaza (they call it terrace seating) and all we have to do is walk out our front door. Much easier first thing in the morning (between 10 a.m. and noon). San Geraldo is awake much earlier than me most days, but I shocked him this morning and was out of bed at 8:40.

BETWEEN TWO ROSES: ELENA AND GONZALO, OWNERS OF CATALINA CASA DE COMIDAS.
GOOD NEIGHBORS, KIND AND GRACIOUS HOSTS, AND HE'S AN INCREDIBLE CHEF.

My favorite restaurant, Catalina Casa de Comidas, has re-opened from summer vacation. We walked over for dinner the other night. I ended my amazing meal with a hamburger (hamburguesa) for dessert. The bun was cake, the cheese was I think caramel, and the burger was a slab of dark chocolate.

MY CHOCOLATE HAMBURGER.
SO MUCH BETTER THAN A BIG MAC (A LOT LESS FAT AND CALORIES, TOO).

As for the meal, we had a special vegetable dish (delicious), their award-winning seafood cocktail (out of this world), another special dish with pasta, the best patatas bravas in creation... Oh, and I had my fishbowl gin tonic and San Geraldo had his baby gin tonic. They actually call it a "gin tonic bebé." Apparently, San Geraldo is not the only one who orders a mini.

LAZILY CHASING SOME TAIL.

A Tower of Gold and Potatoes

On one of my recent strolls home from Goldenmac (computer service) in the neighborhood of Los Remedios followed by a stop at the Foreigners Office (travel papers) in the Plaza de España, I walked most of the way along the river. This walk took me past the Torre del Oro (the Tower of Gold), a beautiful historic landmark. The tower was built as a defensive lookout in 1220 by the Almohad Dynasty, the Moorish ruling dynasty of the time.

HEADING NORTH WITH THE "SKYSCRAPER" ACROSS THE RIVER IN THE BACKGROUND.

There was a companion tower across the river and a gigantic chain was said to be stretched between the two to prevent enemy ships from sailing upriver. That only lasted 28 years when, during the Reconquest, a powerful ship was able to break the chain and isolate Sevilla from Triana, which caused Sevilla to soon surrender to the Christian invaders (led by San Geraldo's 22-Greats Grandfather Fernando III). Although I've read many times about the solitary chain said to be stretched from tower to tower, I've found information recently that explains it was really a string of boats. The boats were attached by a chain between the towers and used as a defense and, more importantly, as a bridge between Sevilla and Triana. Either way, it didn't stop Great-Grandpa.

LOOKING SOUTH AFTER PASSING THE TOWER ON MY WAY HOME.

The narrower (but still 12-sided) top to the tower was added some time in the 1300s and the capped dome was added in 1760. The other tower is thought to have collapsed during the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755 (more than 400km/250 miles away). The tsunami and fires that followed almost completely destroyed Lisbon.

EARLIER IN THE DAY. CROSSING THE RIVER FROM LOS REMEDIOS.

During the Middle Ages, the tower was used as a prison. There are a couple of different stories about how the tower got its name. But the most likely is the fact that the tower had a golden glow that reflected on the river. It is still said that the reason for the glow was because the tower was possibly originally covered with gilded ceramic tile. But, during restoration work in 2005, it was determined that the golden glow was produced by the mixture of lime mortar and straw. Another story often repeated is that the name came from the fact that the tower was used to store the precious metals plundered, oops, I mean brought from the New World. But that appears to be another legend not based in fact (especially since the name in Arabic was Golden Tower long before Spain began to bring its plunder, I mean treasure (I don't know what I could possibly be thinking), to Sevilla.

STATUE IN MURILLO GARDENS TO MASTER PLUNDERER/EXPLORER CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS.

BACK TO SAN GERALDO'S HEAVENLY SINGING
As we settled ourselves into our seats this morning at our usual table at Emperador Trajano, San Geraldo beamed at me and said, "Listen to what's playing!" Fred Astaire was singing "Heaven, I'm In Heaven." But Fred wasn't singing about Patatas Bravas.

San Geraldo began to sing quietly along, and he finished the phrase with what he thought were the correct lyrics "... When we're out together dancing in the street." I explained to him that the real words were, "When we're out together dancing cheek to cheek." He told me it didn't matter; he liked his original version better anyway — the one with patatas bravas.

Heaven, I'm In Heaven

Tere and Miguel returned finally from their summer vacation travels. They bounced around to a few places, visiting friends and lounging on various beaches, leaving us behind in the city. We forgive them though, because they deserved the break. Besides, as soon as they arrived home, Tere texted me to see if we wanted to come to her place for dinner that night. The answer, of course, was "Of course!" When asked, she told us we needed to bring nothing but ourselves, which is what we very ungraciously did.

HEADING OFF INTO THE SUNSET, WALKING ACROSS THE BRIDGE TO TRIANA.
(THE BRIDGE OF THE HOLY CHRIST OF THE EXPIRATION — AKA, "THE ONE WITH THE CANOPIES.")

AT THE SAME TIME, LOOKING SOUTH TO ISABEL II BRIDGE (AKA, TRIANA BRIDGE).
(THE MATCHING TOWERS VISIBLE AT CENTER BEHIND THE TREES ARE AT EITHER END
OF PLAZA DE ESPAÑA. WE'LL BE BACK THERE NEXT WEEK.)

Tere and Miguel had invited another two friends, one we had met before with his partner when they welcomed us to their own house just before Christmas last year. She was traveling on business this time. As usual, their friends were warm, charming, interesting, and funny. We had a great evening, even though it was still 33C (91F) when we walked across the bridge to Triana at 9 p.m. San Geraldo was not a happy (or cool) camper by the time we arrived. But Miguel and Tere were ready for him. Although dinner was going to be enjoyed in the courtyard/patio outside Tere's apartment, an electric fan was plugged in just for his highness, the 22-greats grandson of Ferdinand III.

IT'S ALL ABOUT HIM.
MIGUEL SETTING UP SAN GERALDO'S PERSONAL FAN.

We forgot that Tere's birthday had occurred while she was away. There was a cake (chocolate) and candles. And there we were empty-handed. What this means is that Tere and Miguel are obligated to go out to dinner with us next week for a belated birthday celebration.

A VIEW FROM THE PATIO.

The highlight of the evening for San Geraldo was when Tere brought out a plate of patatas bravas (cubed potatoes fried in olive oil and served in a spicy tomato sauce). San Geraldo loves potatoes and, since our arrival in Sevilla, he has grown to especially love patatas bravas. He orders them in just about every tapas bar we visit, which means he gets a plate of patatas bravas mostly to himself every time, since I'm not a huge fan of potatoes. Teré foolishly handed the plate to San Geraldo to pass around and he chose to assume it was his own personal plate. Although he did share, the plate was finally passed back to him to finish things off. San Geraldo then sang contentedly while forking patatas into his mouth.

SAN GERALDO SINGING FOR HIS SUPPER.